Which Exfoliant is Right for Me?
Travel down the skin care product isle at your local health and wellness shot and you’ll find claims like "reduces fine lines" and "brightening," but when it comes time to decide which one to choose, my clients tell me it has been mostly a guessing game.
Here, I’ll break down the differences in exfoliants and give some general guidelines.
Exfoliants come in two categories dependent on the ingredient make up: acids and a mechanical scrub.
Acid exfoliants
Yes, acid! Don’t let this descriptor make you scrunch up your face. There are two acids typically used in skin care, and they are derived from many sources: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs.) Common AHAs include glycolic acid and lactic acid, while salicylic acid is a popular BHA.
How They Work: Acids work by dissolving the sebum and other material that bonds the dead skin cells on the very surface of the skin. This promotes cell turnover, leading to smoother, brighter skin.
Benefits: Effective for treating acne, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. Acids are able to penetrate pores and effect the skin within them, and can be gentler than a physical scrub making them suitable for treating many skin types when used correctly.
Who: Sensitive, acne or congested, oily, mature and dry skin types benefit from the regular use of an acid exfoliant.
Considerations: May cause some initial irritation or sensitivity, especially for those with sensitive skin. Sun protection is mandatory when using acid exfoliants, as they can increase sun sensitivity.
Scrub Exfoliants
Gritty physical material within a product is used to mechanically slough off surface cells when massaged onto the skin. Typical scrub exfoliants use ingredients such as sugar, salt, rice or ground walnut.
How They Work: Scrub exfoliants remove dead skin cells through friction, revealing younger cells with more hydration underneath. A scrub will also promote blood circulation toward the surface skin layers.
Benefits: Provides immediate smoothness and softness to the skin and can be customized with use of different particle size and texture for different skin types and preferences.
Who: Layered dry skin with slow turn over, active oil production but with dry, congested pores are a couple skin types that might benefit from occasional and very gentle mechanical exfoliation.
Considerations: Scrubs and the error of aggressive application can be too abrasive and lead to irritation or inflammation. Overuse of scrub exfoliants can lead to microtears in the skin, exacerbating issues and breaking the skins natural barrier. It is a good choice to find a scrub with gentle particles and to use minimal pressure when massaging it onto the skin.
Choosing between acid and scrub exfoliants ultimately depends on individual skin type, concerns, and preferences. Some people may benefit from incorporating both types into their skincare routine, using acids for regular chemical exfoliation and scrubs for occasional physical exfoliation. There is no one formula for how often you should use an exfoliating product but a good starting point is once or twice a week and adjusting after evaluating the results of this regimen after a month. Consulting with a skin care expert will help determine your specific needs and create a plan for your optimal skin health. It is important to use any exfoliant responsibly and to monitor your skin's response to exfoliation to avoid over-doing it and causing irritation.
Happy exfoliating!